成都旅游攻略？英文双语对照

到成都旅行，首先要吃好，喝好，玩好：

作者：徐俊霞

01品茗成都

早就听说成都人喜欢喝茶，真正到了成都，才知晓茶文化在耍都的盛行不是虚名。看那大街小巷，公园广场，喝茶的阵容让人叹为观止。

有句谚语这样形容成都的茶馆：天上的太阳少，地上的茶馆多。

天气好的时候，公园里、广场上露天喝茶的人比比皆是，座无虚席。成都本地人喜欢喝茶，连外地人都耳濡目染，来到耍都不去喝杯茶，怎么说得过去？

我在成都的人民公园喝过茶，我在成都的茶叶专卖店品过茶，我在成都的茶坊里吃过茶……我原本不是一个有耐心品茗的人，然而成都遍布街头的茶馆让我兴致勃勃。

和其他城市茶馆的高消费、高门槛不同，成都的茶馆消费档次都不高，10元、15元、20元不等，不管你是达官贵族还是平头百姓，只要你有这个雅兴，就消费得起。

品茗是成都人的一大喜好，成都人普遍会生活，懂生活，在一茶一饮里品出了人生滋味。

成都的水质并不是很好，家家户户用来饮用的自来水里加了太多的漂白粉，人们就用这水烧开了来泡茶。

在人民公园喝茶的时候，邻座有对年轻的情侣要了两杯茉莉花茶，喝了一口便说，这茶没有趵突泉的茶好喝。

的确，成都的茶要的就是大俗大雅，老百姓都能喝得起，当然也有讲究的茶馆，用桶装纯净水给客人泡茶。

竹叶青的小妹告诉我：喝茶一要用好水，二要用好杯子。

她们给客人泡茶都用纯净水烧沸100°，凉到80°，再用来泡茶，头遍茶是要倒掉的，名曰“洗茶”。泡茶的杯子最好是茶叶和水隔离开，才能品出茶的香气。

我就是在她们店里品到了竹叶青、蒙顶雪芽等不同风味的茶。

在我生活的城市，除了宴请客户，一般是不去茶楼消费的，可以说，茶楼的高消费将我们拒之门外，比起喝茶，我周围的年轻人更喜欢咖啡、酒水、饮料。

朋友小聚，喝茶也是喝那种适合这个速食时代的茶，例如水果茶，那种酸酸甜甜的味道也许更适合年轻人吧！

成都则不同，喝茶不分男女老少，喝茶不分季节，这得益于当地湿润的气候，人们一年四季都可以喝绿茶。

在成都喝茶无拘无束，随性所至，不像在别的地方喝茶得端着，故作深沉。

午后，我信步来到人民公园，鹤鸣茶馆是一家老字号，木桌竹椅，选一个角度好的位置坐下，茶馆的小妹为我泡好一杯盖碗茶，把暖瓶放下，就去招呼其他客人了。

那个暖暖的下午，我置身在老茶馆里，闭目养神，周围有茶友在搓麻，有茶友在摆龙门阵，有茶友在看报，偶尔有掏耳郎和看相算命的人上来搭讪。

茶馆里客人如云，往来如梭，也有专门来拍照，捕捉品茗镜头的摄影爱好者。我在这里偷得浮生半日闲，彷佛穿越时空，回到老舍笔下的《茶馆》里。

送人玫瑰，手留余香；饮茶一杯，舌有余香。

君不可一日无茶，成都人把茶喝到了极致，在这里，人们品茗成风，也许说不出一些什么讲究和研究，日积月累，却也形成了别具一格的茶文化。

02 吃在成都

成都饮食素来以麻辣为主，启程去成都之前，我还在犹豫，生怕我这副娇气的胃在天府之国没有寄托。

在成都的第一餐，我信步来到居处附近的一家老麻抄手，要了一两鸡味抄手，老板和店员现做现卖，个个干净利落，我是边看边吃，吃好了还意犹未尽。

说白了，成都的抄手就是北方的馄饨，馅是一样的，不一样的是汤，分麻辣、红油、鸡味、海味、清汤等。

虽是南国，成都却以面食为主，遍布街巷的是各式各样的面：担担面、铺盖面、煎蛋面、燃面……面很劲道，很适合我这个北方人的胃。

早就耳闻龙抄手、钟水饺、韩包子、华兴街煎蛋面的名号，其实大可不必冲着名气去排队，随便走进一条背阴小巷，随便找一家小吃店，你就能吃到地道的抄手、水饺、包子、煎蛋面。

正所谓“蓬门荆钗不掩国色天香，市井民间才是藏龙卧虎之地”！

成都的饮食还有一个最大的好处，一两起卖，我寻思着，谁能拿捏地这么准呢！

可是成都大大小小的馆子，一两的抄手、一两的水饺、一两的面，服务员端上桌的时候，连我这个资深家庭主妇都自叹弗如，一两担担面、一两抄手让我的胃毫无负担。尤其是一两面，对我刚刚好，不多不少。

我是在散步的时候偶遇一家小店，老板自己包叶儿粑、冻粑，这都是用糯米做的，虽然叶儿粑和冻粑可以热着吃也可以凉着吃，但对于肠胃不好的人来说，还是热的叶儿粑和冻粑好吃，对胃没有损害。

冒菜据说是成都女子的最爱，有段日子不吃一顿冒菜，就会思念情人一样格外想念。

我试图给冒菜找一个契合的比喻，冒菜的做法类似东北的乱炖和家庭小火锅，但又好像不恰当，冒菜就是冒菜，一种民间特别的烹制菜肴，麻辣鲜香，可荤可素，也可荤素搭配，吃过之后，身上微微发汗，非常过瘾。

我偏爱冒素菜，土豆片、藕片、冬瓜、粉丝、黄瓜、海带、豆芽、白菜……五花八门的青菜放在一起冒。

冒菜非常下饭，你如果吃不了麻辣冒菜，不妨加一晚米饭，包你胃口大开，尽享口福。

撒子豆花是离开成都的时候，我和朋友去吃的，原来这豆花就是豆腐脑。“小谭豆花”的生意很好，上座率很高，翻台率也很高，店里熙熙攘攘，热闹非凡。

豆花做早点非常棒，白白嫩嫩，香气袭人，吃着非常清淡，又非常巴适。豆花还可以拿来煮面、做甜品、火锅、烧菜，各种新奇的吃法让人味蕾愉悦。

每一道小吃都有故事，每一道菜肴都有典故。虽说川菜早已经遍布大江南北，但只有成都的美食既便宜又正宗，漫步成都的大街小巷，我边走边吃，换着花样用心品尝各类小吃，用美食宠爱着自己。

俗话说，抓住一个人的心，先抓住一个人的胃。

成都是一座来了就不想走的城市，确切地说，成都抓住了每一个旅人的胃，不管这胃是生猛的还是娇贵的，不管这胃是挑剔的还是随和的，在这里都能找到归宿。

03 一步一景

成都是盆地中的平原，每条街道都很短，一条马路分好几段，被冠以古老怪异的名称，看似不远实则不近。

相比宽窄巷子，我更喜欢井巷子。井巷子里游客很少，散散落落的，都和我一样漫不经心，就连巷子里卖手工艺品的商贩都怡然自得地做着手头的事，并不急着招揽顾客。

井巷子的墙壁上有很多黑白老照片，每每停留，总让人浮想联翩，那个趁着天晴，晾晒衣服，忙着吃饭的老妪，那个濛濛细雨中，穿着蓑衣，蹬着三轮车，频频回头的男子，那几个遛鸟下棋的老人……一幅幅画面呼之欲出。

逛完了井巷子，我慕名前往小通巷，巷子里酒吧、茶坊、旅舍，家家都虚掩着门，马路上真是安静，如果你不造访店家，店家也不会惊扰你的旅程。

我放慢脚步，走在这条最原汁原味的成都小巷，和宽窄巷子的车水马龙、游人如织相比，小通巷是一个与繁华喧嚣无关的地方，这里的每一家店铺都由民居改造而来，个性十足，货真价实地体现着成都人的慢生活。

在那条巷子里，我邂逅了一位在家门口卖手链的女子，我安安静静地坐下，细心地挑选陶瓷手链。

女子话不多，如小通巷一样，有着温润如玉的性格，她耐心地帮我一条条试项链、手链。闲谈中，我了解到她刚刚做了妈妈，宝宝还小，只能做些小本生意，打发时光。

流连在成都的日子，我很少坐公交车，打出租车，我徒步去了人民公园、文殊院、武侯祠和锦里，其中最有市井味道的莫过于人民公园。

全国各地都有人民公园，同样是人民公园，只有成都的人民公园是平民大众放松休闲的最佳去处，不管是工作日还是休息日，公园里永远人来人往，露天半露天的茶馆里人声鼎沸，歌舞艺术团比比皆是，自娱自乐的大有人在。

行走的旅途，我更喜欢不经意间邂逅的小街小巷，如芳邻路、泡桐树街、桂花巷。肚子饿了，随便拐进一条小巷，去尝一份特色小吃，喝一碗免费汤水。走路乏了，随便找家茶馆，点一杯茶，歇歇脚。

巷子里经常遇见格调小店，美味小吃，纯正的成都味儿就藏在这一条条街巷里，等待着有心人挖掘。小隐隐于野，大隐隐于市，我在走走停停之间感受巴蜀文化，体验人文景观。

我入住的酒店楼下是一座广场，每天晚上都聚集着无数的人，有玩轮滑的孩子，有遛狗的女子，也有出售小狗小猫的商贩。

长椅上坐满了小憩的人，有偶偶私语的情侣，有头发花白的老人，有逗弄婴儿的夫妇，不管是人还是宠物，都是那样闲散安逸。广场的巷子里有一家布朗美食，一到傍晚，露天的摊位座无虚席。

成都的气候很湿润，绿化很到位，即便马路上人潮汹涌，车流不息，这座城市还是很干净的，成都多雨，不到万不得已，人们普遍不喜欢撑伞，入乡随俗，我收起雨伞，呼吸着南国清冽的空气，闲庭信步在微风细雨中，别有一番情调。

熟悉的地方没有风景，陌生的地方一步一景。

每个角落都有出其不意的发现，每条不起眼的小巷都给我巨大的惊喜，我像一个寻宝的孩子，在这座城市遍寻宝藏，用脚步丈量着每一寸景致。

徐俊霞，媒体撰稿人，笔名：海风，公众号：海风讲故事（ID：haishangfeng2016)，擅长创作亲子、情感、职场故事，作品散见于各大报刊和公众号。

Travel to Chengdu, want to had eaten above all, had drunk, had played:

Author: Xu Junxia

The 01 Chengdu that taste tea

Early hear Chengdu person likes to drink tea, arrived truly Chengdu, witting tea culture is making fun of ability be current is not undeserved reputation. See that ave lane, park square, the battle array that drinks tea lets a person acclaim as the peak of perfection.

An adage describes the cafes of Chengdu so: Ethereal sun is little, the cafes on the ground is much.

When weather is good, in the park, the person that the open air on square drinks tea cans be found everywhere, full. Chengdu native likes to drink tea, connect foreigner be influenced by what one constantly sees and hears, will play not to drink a cup of tea, how justifiable?

I had drunk tea in the people park of Chengdu, I had tasted tea in the tea brand shop of Chengdu, I had taken tea in the tea lane of Chengdu... I am not a person that has patient Pin Ming originally, however the cafes that Chengdu spreads all over street lets my in spirits.

Differ with the high spending of other city cafes, high threshold, the cafes consumption class of Chengdu is not high, 10 yuan, 15 yuan, 20 yuan differ, no matter you are the noble that amount to an official or crop common people, want you to have this asthetic mood only, must rise with respect to consumption.

Pin Ming is the one big be fond of of Chengdu person, chengdu person can live generally, know the life, in one tea taste in one drink gave life taste.

The water quality of Chengdu is not very good, every family is used too much bleaching powder was added in drinkable tap water, people was burned with this water come make tea.

When people park drinks tea, neighbour had pair of young lovers to want two cups of jasmine flower tea, drank to say, this tea does not have Bao dash forward fontal tea is good drink.

Really, what the tea of Chengdu wants is great convention elegance, common people can be drunk case, also have cultured cafes of course, with bucket outfit clean water gives a guest make tea.

The little younger sister of green bamboo snake tells me: Drink tea to want to use good water, 2 should use good mug.

They burn boil with clean water to guest make tea 100 ° , cool to 80 ° , reoccupy comes make tea, the head alls over tea want, the name says " wash tea " . The cup of make tea had better be tea and water segregation leave, ability tastes the sweet smell that gives tea.

I tasted the tea of the different gust such as the green bamboo snake, Xue Ya that cheat a top in their inn namely.

In the city that I live, besides fete client, it is not to go to what tea building consumes commonly, can say, the high spending of tea building our close the door on, compared with drink tea, the youth all round me prefers water of coffee, wine, beverage.

The friend gets together, drinking tea also is to drink the sort of tea that suits this fastfood times, for example fruit tea, the smell with the sort of acerbity sweet acid perhaps suits a youth more!

Chengdu is different, drink tea not to divide men and women, drink tea not to divide season, place of this profit from's wet climate, people can drink green tea all the year round.

Tea is drunk in Chengdu unrestrained, the place that follow a gender comes, unlike drinks tea to must be carried in other place, pretend to be dark.

Afternoon, I stroll come to people park, the crane cries cafes is an old name, chair of wooden desk bamboo, choose the place with a good point of view to sit down, the little younger sister of cafes is good for my bubble a cup of tea that build a bowl, put down thermos flask, go call is other guest.

That warms warm afternoon, my place oneself is in old cafes, shut eye repose, there is tea friend to be in all round rub hemp, friend having tea is in chat, friend having tea is reading a newspaper, will strike up a conversation on the person that now and then the Lang He that draw out ear sees photograph fortune-telling.

The guest in cafes is like the cloud, come-and-go is like shuttle, also have will technically take a picture, catch the photography lover of the camera lens that taste tea. I am here poach float gives birth to idle half days, fang Buddha passes through spatio-temporal, return what often abandon the wording and purpose of what one writes " cafes " in.

Send person rose, the hand leaves lingering fragrance; Drink tea a cup, the tongue has lingering fragrance.

Gentleman cannot not have tea one day, chengdu person drinks tea to acme, here, people tastes tea become the order of the day, perhaps do not say to go out to a few what is paid attention to and study, accumulate over a long period, also formed the tea culture of having a unique style however.

02 eat in Chengdu

Chengdu food always with hemp hot give priority to, set out go before Chengdu, I still am in hesitant, for fear that I this pair of delicate tummy was not placed in the land of abundance.

In the feed of Chengdu, I stroll a Laoma that comes near house part copies a hand, wanted 9 chicken flavour to copy a hand, boss and counterjumper are done now sell now, each efficient, I am the edge sees an edge eat, had eaten to return meaning still did not use up.

Spoken parts in an opera, of Chengdu the wonton that copying a hand is north, stuffing is same, different is soup, cent hemp is hot, red flavour of oily, chicken, choice seafood, clear soup.

Although be austral, chengdu is given priority to with cooked wheaten food however, those who spread all over street alley is sundry face: Face of Sichuan noodles with peppery sauce, bedclothes, omelette face, light a face... the aspect is very strong path, suit me very much the stomach of this northerner.

The renown number that copies range of omelette of street of steamed stuffed bun of boiled dumpling of hand, bell, Han, Huaxing early with respect to hear of dragon, actually can need not develop fame to queue up, walk into a shady lane casually, look for a snack bar casually, you copy range of hand, boiled dumpling, steamed stuffed bun, omelette with respect to what can eat a tunnel.

alleged " bitter fleabane Men Jingchai not attack by surprise very beautiful, the ground that marketplace folk just is hiddden talents " !

The food of Chengdu still has a the biggest gain, 9 sell, I am thinking over, who can be taken hold the ground so accurate!

Can be the eating house with greatly small Chengdu, of 9 copy the hand, boiled dumpling of 9, range of 9, the desk on clerk end when, even me this senior housewife sigh oneself be like,not, the 9 Sichuan noodles with peppery sauce, 9 stomaches that copy a hand to let me are without a burden. Especially 9, firm to me just, neither more nor less than.

I am when taking a walk come across inn of one wife and children, him boss wraps Xie Er cake, aspic cake, this is done with polished glutinous rice, it is OK also that although Xie Er cake and aspic cake are OK hot move eats cool move eats, but for bad to intestines and stomach person, hot still Xie Er cake and aspic cake are delicious, did not damage to the stomach.

Risk dish is Chengdu woman allegedly to love most, paragraph of day does not eat to risk dish, with respect to meeting longing the lover is missed all the more euqally.

I try to risk dish to look for an analogy that agree, the chaos with the similar and northeast practice that risks dish is stewed and domestic small chaffy dish, but be like again impertinent, risk dish to risk dish namely, a kind of folk cooks cooked food particularly, hemp hot delicacy is sweet, but meat or fish but element, also but element of meat or fish is tie-in, after eating, go up personally slightly sudoriferous, special satisfy a craving.

My preference is risked Lenten, potato chips, lotus root piece, wax gourd, vermicelli made from bean starch, cucumber, kelp, bean sprouts, Chinese cabbage... multifarious green vegetables is put together risk.

Risk dish special go with rice, if you cannot eat hemp is hot risk dish, might as well add one late rice, wrap your appetite is big, all enjoy the luck to eat sth delicious.

Sa Zidou is spent is when leaving Chengdu, I and friend go eating, so this beans flower is jellied bean curd. "Small Tan Dou is spent " the business is very good, rate of seat of honour is very high, rate reversing a stand is very high also, inn Li Xixi rejects, lively and extraordinary.

Fabaceous flower cooks breakfast special club, for nothing tender, aroma raids a person, eating very delicate, special Ba Kuo. Fabaceous flower still can take the side that boil, do sweetmeats, chaffy dish, cook food, of all sorts of novelty eat a law to make person taste bud cheerful.

Each fastfood have a story, each dish has literary quotation. Though plain dish is early,had spread all over great river north and south, but the beautiful second contact of Chengdu is only cheap authentic, the ave of rambling Chengdu is off-street, the edge goes to eat by the side of me, changing pattern intention to sample of all kinds and fastfood, doting on with cate oneself.

Common saying says, capture one the individual's heart, capture a maw first.

Chengdu is a city that will do not think, say exactly, chengdu captured each brigade maw, no matter this stomach is to give birth to fierce still is enervated, no matter this stomach is captious,still be amiable, be here to be able to find a home to return to.

03 one pace one scene

Chengdu is the Campagna in the basin, every street very short, a driveway divides several paragraphs, by the coronal with old and barpque name, look seem not far in fact not close.

Compare size alley child, I prefer Jing Hangzi. The tourist in Jing Hangzi is very few, medicinal powder scatter those who fall, mix I am euqally unmindful, the small retailer that handicraft sells to taste in Lian Hangzi the thing that ground of happy and pleased with oneself is doing right beside one, not rapid move solicits a client.

There is very much black and white old picture on Jing Hangzi's wall, often stay, always let together of person thoughts or recollections flashing across one's mind, that is taking the advantage of Tian Qing, air dries the clothes, the busy gammer that have a meal, in drizzle of that , wearing straw rain cape, toing step on tricycle, the man that turns round again and again, the old person of play chess of bird of those a few stroll... one a picture be vividly portrayed.

Rambled Jing Hangzi, my Muming heads for small alley, alley child in lane of bar, tea, brigade is abandoned, domestic home with the door left unlocked is worn the door, it is quiet really on the driveway, if you do not visit inn-keeper, inn-keeper also won't alarm your itinerary.

Footstep of my rein in, the Chengdu that goes in raw ingredient of this the formerest juice is off-street, with size alley child if heavy traffic, tourist knits photograph comparing, small alley is with flourishing and blatant the place that have nothing to do, each shop here is transformed by civilian house and come, individual character is dye-in-the-wood, reflecting the slow life of Chengdu person all wool and a yard widely.

In that alley child in, I met unexpectedly a woman that sells a hand chain in door mouth, I sit down quietly, choose catenary of hand of pottery and porcelain attentively.

Woman word is not much, if small alley is same, having the nature of Wen Runru jade, she helps me patiently try catenary of necklace, hand. In chat, I understood her to just do mom, baby is little still, can do only some small business, dismiss days.

Flow to be in repeatedly the day of Chengdu, I sit rarely bus, call a taxi, I am pedestrian went ancestral temple of Hou of courtyard of different of people park, article, fierce and bright and beautiful in, have park of people of marketplace olfactory nothing is more... than most among them.

Countrywide each district has people park, it is people park likewise, only the people park of Chengdu is civilian masses loosens recreational optimal place to go, no matter be weekday or playday, bearer of Li Yongyuan's person goes to the park, open air noisy and confused of the voice in the cafes of half open air, group of art of singing and dancing cans be found everywhere, the there are plenty of such people that amuse oneself.

Walking journey, I prefer casual the small market of an encounter is off-street, if fragrant adjacent road, paulownia cultivates alley of street, sweet-scented osmanthus. Abdomen is hungry, informal abduct enters a lane, go tasting a characteristic fastfood, drink a bowl of free Shang Shui. On foot lack, look for a cafes casually, nod a cup of tea, rest stop on the way for a rest.

Alley child in often encounter style small shop, delicate and fastfood, pure Chengdu taste be in this one with respect to Tibet in street alley, awaiting mining of a person with high aspirations and determination. Small faint Yu Ye, big faint at city, I am going to stop stop between experience cling to Sichuan culture, experience humanitarian landscape.

The public house that I enter is a square downstairs, collecting countless people in the evening everyday, have play round of slippery child, have the woman that walk a dog, also have the small retailer that sells doggie kitten.

Sit on couch full small resting person, have occasionally occasionally murmurous sweethearts, have the old person of hair grey, have the couple of kid baby, no matter be person or pet, it is disengaged in that way and easy and comfortable. The alley of square child in have a cloth bright cate, arrive towards evening, outdoor stall is full.

The climate of Chengdu is very wet, afforest very reach the designated position, the stream on even if driveway is billowy, wagon flow does not cease, this city is very clean still, chengdu is rainy, until the last moment, people does not like generally to maintain an umbrella, do in Rome as Rome does, I pack up umbrella, breathing to the southern part of the country cooling air, idle front courtyard strolls in gentle breeze drizzle, do not have emotional appeal one time.

Familiar place does not have a scenery, new place one pace one scene.

Every corner has the discovery of do with sb unconscious, every ordinary lane gives me tremendous surprise, I find the child of treasure like, in this city searching treasure, wear with footstep measure each inches of scene.

Xu Junxia, media contributor, pseudonym: Sea wind, public date: Sea wind taletelling (ID: Haishangfeng2016) , be good at creation kissing child, story of field of affection, duty, work comes loose see at each big the press is mixed public date.